Used car Question?

[TattooDaveParticipant 6952]

Exactly my friend it’s all about the Smithy. It’s not like you live in New York City. Labor might be cheap Anybody can wield metal. You must find the good Smith giving you the best advice.

Gary the overworked mechanic needs a break from exotic cars and so he decides to help me out and without any tools pull the engine out of my truck 4 less than 200 bucks. The rebuild is not that cheap but it’s going to be under 1200 bucks. Maybe check out what you can do without going to the bank

I can see their heads have been twisted and fed with worthless foam from the mouth. Bob d

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

BE CAREFUL removing the rivet/retaining pin the ejector has a spring loaded plunger and it is under tension. If you aren’t careful it will shoot out of the gun and be VERY hard to find.

[TattooDaveParticipant 6952]

PistolPete wrote:

BE CAREFUL removing the rivet/retaining pin the ejector has a spring loaded plunger and it is under tension. If you aren’t careful it will shoot out of the gun and be VERY hard to find.

She sounds like a squirter. I have no experience with any of that but I do know the courage to call 47

I can see their heads have been twisted and fed with worthless foam from the mouth. Bob d

[globemasterParticipant 443]

Get a toyota/honda.

[AutoliteParticipant]

PistolPete wrote:

BE CAREFUL removing the rivet/retaining pin the ejector has a spring loaded plunger and it is under tension. If you aren’t careful it will shoot out of the gun and be VERY hard to find.

Thanks for the advice. I’ll check it out as you’ve suggested. I’ve done a complete disassembly/inspection on this gun but that was many years ago. In my prime, I could reassemble a field stripped Browning Hi-Power blind-folded behind my back. Today I think I’d need a magnifying lens and a YouTube video just to get everything back together in one piece… 😀

[JakeParticipant 908]

I’m in car industry I make tow trucks bad cars dot buy

[It’sallbsParticipant]

Greg Honda wrote:

As my name implies, I trust Honda for reliability over all other brands. But you pay a price for quality. I agree with awakened. Milage is key. I wouldn’t buy something with more than 80k on the clock.

Average cars have a built in life of about 8 years, based on 10k a year. Rust isn’t the problem it used to be, but modern engines have fine tollerances and use small bore oilways needing low vicosity oil 10w/40.

This oil is thin and needs to be changed at least once a year. Oil changes are vital for modern engines. Service history is important, or proof that the previous owner has changed the oil regularly. I would avoid Nissan as these are now re-badged Renaults – S~~~.

So, basically a low milage Honda or Toyota, or a cheap high milage simple construction older car that can be kept running cheap.

All modern cars change designs on a three year cycle, so spares are expensive after a few years, just when you are likely to need them. If I get some money I’ll be looking for a mid 90’s car, pre air bags and fancy electronics, that has been restored by an enthusiast for a hobby and sold on to fund the next project.

Just my 2 cents.

I’d of said that- I had a Honda civic years ago but I don’t think German and Japanese cars are the same in America as in Britain. Apparently VW are s~~~ and made in Mexico.

http://www.leavemeansleave.eu

[It’sallbsParticipant]

If I ever get another f~~~in job I’m getting a used one of these…

https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-review/volkswagen/golf-r

http://www.leavemeansleave.eu

[WPLParticipant 2390]

I’d drive a Lada… just not as my only car!

Seriously, though — my advice: Toyota, Honda, or Nissan (or their luxury brands), in that order. They’re not flashy, but you can’t go wrong with a Camry (I believe they were available with a manual transmission until fairly recently, too — in my very humble opinion, autos suck.)

Anonymous wrote:

Can I interest you in a 1983 Renault Le Car?

how about a 1988 Yugo?

A Russian Lada? Made from the finest Ural steel!

Whatever you buy, it’s worth having a compression test on all the cylinders, it will tell you if there’s something wrong outside the obvious.

[Y_Participant 4591]

Pete

Websites show that KIA Amanti 2005 have the most complaints from owners compared to other KIA models

http://www.carcomplaints.com/Kia/Amanti/2005/
https://www.vehiclehistory.com/vehicle-problems/results1.php

Engine stalls @ 90000 miles
Power Loss @ 125000 miles
Gasket Leak @ 98000 miles
Throttle Sticks @ 83000 miles
NHTSA Speed Control @ 44000 miles
NHTSA Engine Problems @ 78000 miles
NHTSA Body Problems @ 54000 miles
NHTSA Steering Problems @ 10000 miles
NHTSA Fuel System Problems @ 46000 miles

There are mixed views for this car so it would depend on the issues above.
My last car I got a mechanic to check it out well worth it.

[It’sallbsParticipant]

Perfect car for you Pistol…

Smallest Car in the World

http://www.leavemeansleave.eu

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

That smallest car thing is funny as s~~~.

Well as Scotty said the Hagis is in the fire. Yes I bucked everyone’s advice and bought it. $2500 + a used Taurus Model 85. For good or ill I took the plunge.

I checked consumer reports and there was 158 responses 9 of which were negative. (5 dealing with the paint etc, four dealing with mechanical issues.)

It seems to drive good. Yes its idle isn’t as purring smooth as some and it does seem to want to stall when coming to a stop BUT it doesn’t—it keeps going. Only time will tell if I got burned or not. My poor little Loyal Nissan is upset but it will get over it.

[LeitnainParticipant 32]

If you’re gonna go the used car route which is what most people do, I would strongly suggest looking more at the longevity of the vehicle rather than the initial price. This is an investment, you want to invest (really) into cheaper repairs and upkeep down the long run.

"Life hath no spring, no axle, and no end." - Aleister Crowley, Hymn to Lucifer

[It’sallbsParticipant]

PistolPete wrote:

That smallest car thing is funny as s~~~.

Well as Scotty said the Hagis is in the fire. Yes I bucked everyone’s advice and bought it. $2500 + a used Taurus Model 85. For good or ill I took the plunge.

I checked consumer reports and there was 158 responses 9 of which were negative. (5 dealing with the paint etc, four dealing with mechanical issues.)

It seems to drive good. Yes its idle isn’t as purring smooth as some and it does seem to want to stall when coming to a stop BUT it doesn’t—it keeps going. Only time will tell if I got burned or not. My poor little Loyal Nissan is upset but it will get over it.

Fords are cack Ive got one just passed it’s MOT by some miracle with no advisories going round to collect it in a minute.

It has erratic idle an on off clutch with a flat spot and a temperamental electronic throttle with surge problems that gives 3000 revs if you breathe on it.

Fun driving it in long ques (lines) of stop start traffic

It’s only 7 years old 47,000 miles

I guess be american you wont know about clutches.

http://www.leavemeansleave.eu

[AutoliteParticipant]

PistolPete wrote:

Yes I bucked everyone’s advice and bought it. $2500 + a used Taurus Model 85. For good or ill I took the plunge.

The older Ford Taurus had known issues with automatic transmission failures. I would be very surprised if this was not already mentioned in the consumer reports.

Maybe they were sorted out by 1985, I don’t know. Now that you own the vehicle, be sure to pay extra attention to the automatic transmission. Keep clean fluid always filled to the correct level. Perhaps consider installing an auxiliary transmission oil cooler if the vehicle does not already have one.

Heat and dirty transmission fluid are the biggest killers of automatic transmissions. Pay extra attention to this with this car. Good luck…

(Also, if the engine is a 3.8 litre V6, keep the radiator coolant clean and topped up and the radiator cooling fins clean and free from debris. The 3.8 litre V6 engine had aluminum heads bolted to a cast iron block. Uneven cooling caused the head gaskets to leak. A very common issue with this engine. A Ford 3.8 litre engine’s head gaskets would leak if you just parked in the sun too long. Be very attentive to the engine cooling system if it’s a 3.8 litre V6.)

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Re-Autolite—will do;

Back to your Ruger issue. I spoke to a couple of gunsmithy buddies today about your issue. It was agreed that the problem/solution is:

A burr in the breach caused by the firing pin—take some emery paper/dremel and polish it out.
OR
Looking at the bolt face the lower part is often squared off (it is made that way) which deforms the round before it loads. Round off the square edge
OR round off the square edges on the top of the mags.

Hope this helps! TEST load a round and look to see if the bolt is in full batch—lightly tap the charging handle at the rear of the firearm and see it that moves it into full batch. Remember this firearm WILL fire even if it is not in full batch. Take care my friend.

[AutoliteParticipant]

PistolPete wrote:

A burr in the breach caused by the firing pin—take some emery paper/dremel and polish it out.
OR
Looking at the bolt face the lower part is often squared off (it is made that way) which deforms the round before it loads. Round off the square edge
OR round off the square edges on the top of the mags.

Hope this helps! TEST load a round and look to see if the bolt is in full batch—lightly tap the charging handle at the rear of the firearm and see it that moves it into full batch. Remember this firearm WILL fire even if it is not in full batch. Take care my friend.

Will do. Many thanks…

[Author]

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