Used car Question?

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Many of you my brethren are far more knowledgeable about cars than I. So I am thinking about buying a Kia Amanti, 2005, 129K miles three owners (middle owner was a dealer) NOT that I need to but lets face it My 2000 Nissian has 306K miles on it and it ain’t going to live forever.

The guy was asking $3200 for the Kia, I’ve got him down to $2500 + one of four guns-his choice. What do I need to know here? Is the price high/low what?

[TattooDaveParticipant 6952]

is not a great car Kia, that car is reached almost the end of its life. You can even buy an older Honda and get a much better value.

Don’t be a dumbass buy something that holds its value Kia never does this

I can see their heads have been twisted and fed with worthless foam from the mouth. Bob d

[AwakenedParticipant 35201]

I wouldn’t buy it. I don’t believe older Kia’s were all that great, and it could become a money pit.

I have Never gone wrong with looking and waiting for low mile cars, maybe a little older, but at decent prices. Miles are more important then age as long as the car is not rotted. It may take you a little while to find a good combination, but I would be looking on Craigslist daily, and I have found more then a couple low mile good deals.

In a World of Justin Beibers Be a Johnny Cash

[HitmanParticipant]

pete, some things are worth paying more for.
get a good used car.
before you buy it bring it to a mechanic and for 50 bucks they go over the whole damn thing.
kia aint great.
but i know ALL about not having enough money.
so you get what you can afford.
aprox 10,000 miles per year max is the rule..
that kia fits that.
get him down to 15 maybe 19 hundred.
do cash..
it looks more appealing than a check..

[Anonymous 42]

Can I interest you in a 1983 Renault Le Car?

how about a 1988 Yugo?

A Russian Lada? Made from the finest Ural steel!

Whatever you buy, it’s worth having a compression test on all the cylinders, it will tell you if there’s something wrong outside the obvious.

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Its not so much a dealership as it is a garage that repairs and then re-sells. In fact they were using it as a loner car to folks that needed to leave their car for repair.

Now I’m 56 and have never bought from a dealer—every vehicle I have ever owned was purchased from a garage, front yard, newspaper ad and even a Food Lion Parking lot. So that is why I asked. I’ve checked the CARFAX, and consumer reports, so I have done a little research.

[Greg HondaParticipant 6406]

As my name implies, I trust Honda for reliability over all other brands. But you pay a price for quality. I agree with awakened. Milage is key. I wouldn’t buy something with more than 80k on the clock.

Average cars have a built in life of about 8 years, based on 10k a year. Rust isn’t the problem it used to be, but modern engines have fine tollerances and use small bore oilways needing low vicosity oil 10w/40.

This oil is thin and needs to be changed at least once a year. Oil changes are vital for modern engines. Service history is important, or proof that the previous owner has changed the oil regularly. I would avoid Nissan as these are now re-badged Renaults – S~~~.

So, basically a low milage Honda or Toyota, or a cheap high milage simple construction older car that can be kept running cheap.

All modern cars change designs on a three year cycle, so spares are expensive after a few years, just when you are likely to need them. If I get some money I’ll be looking for a mid 90’s car, pre air bags and fancy electronics, that has been restored by an enthusiast for a hobby and sold on to fund the next project.

Just my 2 cents.

It's Time to get Wise

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Suprised Tower didn’t mention the Dacha! The creme of Hungarian engineering.

[Heave-Ho MgtowParticipant 1797]

Pete
Get a Honda or Acura. Maintain it and the damn things run forever. I had an 04 MDX and put 300k on it. I got tired of it, and sold it. That Nisson hit the mark. Find another just like it but low miles?

An older Buick century can turn 200k untouched. Look around the retirement villas. A young buck like you could get lucky there…

F~~~ early kias

skip the cavernous vag and go your own way

[Greg HondaParticipant 6406]

Dachia were re-badged Renaults buit under licence. I ran Renualts for a few years, but the price of spares was too high. Rather have an old Ford.

It's Time to get Wise

[AutoliteParticipant]

I’m afraid that I really don’t know very much about the newer cars with their fancy-pants overhead valves and s~~~.

If you’re interested in a particular model of Kia, perhaps you might want to go to a Kia owner’s website and ask there.

Pretty much all makes and models of all vehicles have a dedicated owner’s web site. They’ll likely be more than happy to tell you anything that you need or want to know…

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Years ago I actually had a 1979 civic 5 speed—needed to deploy lanteen sails to get up to 60mph but did get nearly 50 miles to the gallon. Believe it or not my Nissan had 210K when I bought it 6 years ago for $3400. Truth is I have always wanted one of these Amanti’s but they were always way out of my price range.

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

I did look at comparable Acuras et al but as Hitman correctly guessed money is an issue and those are all about 2k-3K over what I can pay—that is why there is a gun barter in the deal as well. If I thought the Nissan could make it another 5 years I wouldn’t worry about it but 307K+ is a lot and my old Ford Explorer is a 92 and currently isn’t running.

I really do appreciate the advice and input. I’m going to cogitate about this some more and make as careful/thoughtful evaluation and decision as possible.

[TattooDaveParticipant 6952]

You can never go wrong with a Toyota Camry with low miles keep looking Pete.

I can see their heads have been twisted and fed with worthless foam from the mouth. Bob d

[,Participant 1301]

Only 5 years newer than the Nissan.

NEW Versa Sedan is about 13,400 before taxes. base is 11,990 but you get a $900 destination fee and maybe mats and trunk release that puts it to 12,400 PLUS destination.

The 1.6L engine is a good one. and above is a stick. ~$200/mo for 72mo but more down is less per month.

Best deals are 1-2 yr old cars with high miles.
or 3-5 yr old cars with average miles or high miles.

Kia and Hyundai are better and better but they are low end.

SO, if you put $2000 into your old Nissan, would that make it an 20 month driver?

Newer 4-cyls are good for combined 30-40mpg. Some newer V-6 get close. if you need a truck or a van, that’s a tough call. Count on 20mpg at best. Small V-8 seems most reliable.

Old GM H or C bodys, 88,98, Electra, Park Ave are cheap, comfy and get 30mpg on the highway. Grandpas Crown Vic or Marquis are tried and true work horses that get 22 mpg and have a substantial chassis and SRS system.

Most all newer vehicles have good electrical and emission systems and restraint systems. The Asian automatics are better than they used to be. Rust is the biggest concern on brake lines and fuel lines in my area. Everything can be replaced yes, at a cost.
You deal with Talladega heat so its transmissions, engines cooling systems and sun damage that I’d be mindful of.

I’d always try to find an aged seller or perhaps a distressed seller that had actual documentation of service. Cash is the meat.

If you can find something you like that has a bolt on door or fender damage, you may get a pretty good deal and cheap repair. Hail damage vehicles are cheap and if you like golf, then no problem. The dents don’t rust unless the pain is broken. If you need a LOOKER i’ll goback to the high mileage late model genre. Next, the distressed seller and finally, the low mileage old age vehicles but there is a lot more trouble areas and aspects there.

It is a Game, but DEMOGRAPHICS are in our favor. The early boomers are getting too old to drive and their kids kid’s don’t want that style.
Tax season so be wary of scammers.

with joy/without hate

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Exactly my problem is health is getting worse and worse and long road trips are a thing of the past in small uncomfortable cars. (let us recall I’m on disability) For dashing about town (church/store) I would use the Nissan, but in the event of a longer trip say 90 miles or more I would use the Kia. At least that was my plan.

The Owner of the garage/dealer has been in business in the area for the last 25 years, and it is located less than 5 miles from my house…so this sin’t a fly-by-night, or far-off dealership. He checked out OK at the local chamber of commerce too. I’ve had astonishingly good luck with every vehicle I have ever owned. I literally drive them until they die—sic my Ford. I also have the advice of an old used car salesman friend of mine.

So I’m not parsing the decision process but a good decision requires as much input and data as possible. And you guys seem to be pretty unanimous.

Of course if I win the lottery that 1980 Lincoln Continental is MINE!

[Anonymous 43]

amanti mmmm not a good idea. Price out insurance. Korean cars have high insurance costs.

Is it price you are worried about…Cars less than $3K are generally almost driven out or look good this week and need some work next month. Particularly cars that are 10+ years old.

look on ebay motors and see what $3000 gets you for buy it now. It won’t be pretty.

one place to try…scrap yards. They have running cars that people just couldn’t sell. They may have problems, so have a mechanic inspect what ever you choose.

Pete, here are three quick things you can check for when u look at cars.

Open the engine hood, take off the oil filler cap and give the inside of the car a quick sniff…smell burned? nasty dirty smell? keep moving. pull the dip stick, see metallic stuff? run.

next, use a white rag, give the car an anal probe…up the tail pipe…is the rag sooty and oily? move on.

last quick check…when the car is cold look in the radiator with a flashlight…for those in Pennsylvania, the raaaaaaadiator. See nothing? like dry, move on. See an oily sheen in the radiator, move on

First test…is the engine full of sludge and s~~~…burned oil smell, pudding like crap on the cap. NFG

2nd test…oily exhaust = big trouble, run the f~~~ away

3rd test… oil in radiator/coolant in oil/completely dry = cracked block, game over man get out of there.

[TattooDaveParticipant 6952]

This is why I said pick an older used car that more suits your needs. If I had my pic for you right now it would be the Toyota Camry model doesn’t have a lot of flaws get your where to go no problems.

I don’t care what your friend tells you and I understand relationships Kia is not a good bet.

That 2.4 liter engine can be a nightmare. A Camry has a very simple engine easy to work on your mechanic will love you. It doesn’t matter how long you’ve known somebody even your own family will unload a lemon if you’re not careful. I’m rebuilding this truck for a very good reason once it’s done I know I did it. If you can’t do this buy something very dependable. You don’t want to have to reinvent the wheel

I can see their heads have been twisted and fed with worthless foam from the mouth. Bob d

[RusskyParticipant 13503]

I’d keep driving that Nissan until it falls apart and save some more money in a meanwhile.

proud carrier of the 'why?' chromosome

[PistolPeteParticipant 27143]

Just checked the reviews 156 responses 9 were bad. Of the 9 5 were related to the paint/undercoating the bottom 4 were really bad; computer failure, transmission failure etc. and interestingly occurred in vehicles with under 50K miles. Very interesting. Russky may have the best advice, stick to my plan and drive it until it dies.

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