Having lots of fun this afternoon with my new Appliance Load Tester Ammeter/Wattmeter connected to my fridge and watching how much energy it uses.
18 cubic foot refrigerator with freezer on top portion rated at 6.5 amps max.
The refrigerator was using approximately 106 watts to run in normal operating mode.
I cleaned the vents and vacuumed the bottom for better air flow over the condenser coils and I notice it now runs steady at about 100 watts.
The interesting part is when it stops runnings and sits idle between cycles .. it uses just 2 watts.
Here’s the surprising part .. when it starts running from idle .. it briefly uses about 856 watts as the motor/compressor kicks in and then over a few more seconds settles back down to just about 100 watts running.
In conclusion: even though your refrigerator might be very energy efficient .. always allow up to about 900 watts for start up .. and on some big units it might go as high as 2100 watts for a few brief seconds to start the compressor.
If you are using a generator for powering a refrigerator after a power outage .. always remember the energy needed for start up .. you might have to briefly allow well over a thousand starting watts for that motor on a big unit, in your calculations, for powering your house .. even though it might take only a few hundred running watts .. after the compressor kicks in.
I power my house using two small quiet inverter generators “as needed” instead of one large whole house unit. These generators literally “sip gas” and one of my biggest worries after a storm is getting fuel. I just prefer the feeling of having smaller units and economizing on energy .. even though a big whole house system would likely be more convenient. I burn wood as a backup .. so I don’t have to worry about powering a furnace. I also have access to plenty of water.
By dedicating a small generator of about 2200 watts to the refrigerator-freezer .. and running it at normal speed will produce all the power needed for the start up draw.
For about twenty dollars, you can get a wireless refrigerator/freezer thermometer that will show internal temps and signal when they reach certain points .. such as 39 degrees for fridge. This way you can occasionally shut down refrigerator generator and watch internal temps, including freezer, without opening doors. This monitor mounts on refrigerator exterior with magnetic back and internal units use AA batteries .. use lithium batteries for freezer sender as regular alkaline don’t like temps below freezing.
Having a second small generator, about 2000 watts “inverter generator” which can be purchased for a few hundred dollars .. you can power the rest of the house including electronics like laptops, tv and general lighting. These items use very little power .. and this second small generator can be set at “economy mode” on the control panel switch .. which will run for about six hours .. or even more on a gallon of gas. Movie night is no problem.
Using a small portable “induction hotplate” and an induction fry pan and kettle … will allow you to fry or cook most anything and boil water very quickly and easily on stovetop using around 900 watts.
Last, but not least, the microwave oven .. can draw lots of current .. and if I need to use this I use refrigerator generator, disconnecting cord from refrigerator, use microwave completely alone on the 2200 watt generator for a few minutes .. and then return the cord to refrigerator.
I use heavy 10 gauge extension cords from both generators to building .. and all kitchen appliances. They sometimes look almost as thick as garden hoses but have very little current drop. For the other smaller draw items like tv monitor, laptop computer, modems or dvd player .. I branch using a 12 gauge extension .. and only use a couple of 14 gauge cords to a floor and table lamps with energy efficient bulbs drawing only a few watts each.
wcurtin1962 1 year, 8 months ago.
